So, I did the surf comp.
Final results? Dead last.
No excuses. Just a solid, humbling last place. And you know what? It was awesome.
I paddled out. Took some waves. Met new people. Got cheered on by strangers. And yeah - I lost. But I walked away stoked. Because when was the last time you did something purely to push yourself? To see what happens when you actually show up?
And that’s the thing. I wasn’t alone in this. That was last weekend’s lesson!
Fast forward to today.
My son and I went skateboarding (technically, surfskating) last night. He’s been watching me struggle with it for months (okay, fine - years). I’m stiff as hell in my 40s, awkward, trying to do nice looking turns.
But yesterday? Felt different.
I was in the flow. Linking turns. Feeling the muscle memory.
He noticed it and gave me a high five. #prouddadmoment
Then later, we sat down to watch the Nazaré Red Bull Big Wave Challenge (YouTube link).
Between bites of dinner (I know, not great - but some days, you just go with it), I asked him:
“If you could get any championship surfer’s jersey, which one would it be?”
He thought for a second.
“Kai Lenny,” he said. The GOAT of big waves. A wave-riding machine. The guy who makes the impossible look easy. Surfing, kiting, windsurfing, SUP. Just everything.
Then he paused. Looked at me.
“No… I think it’s Papa. Papa should be on the jersey.”
That hit deep.
Not because I’m anywhere close to Kai Lenny (I wish I lived in a universe where that scale even existed). But because he sees what I’m doing. He sees me showing up, paddling out, stacking small wins.
And maybe - just maybe - that’s more valuable than being the best.
Lesson learned?
Just do it. Sign up for new things. Say yes. Get out there.
And more importantly => Find your supporters. The ones who push you, cheer for you, and see your progress before you even do.
Turns out, some of the best ones might be right in front of you.
Go out there.
P.S. Have to stop now. Waves are looking good. Squeezing in a surf session before school pickup. 😉
